The de Young Museum plans to start the new year in high style.

The costume exhibition “Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style,” scheduled to open Jan. 20, will feature pieces almost entirely from the museum’s Caroline and H. McCoy Jones Department of Textile Arts. By displaying 100 years of haute couture and high fashionworn by women in the city, the show “asserts the case that San Francisco does, and has always had, style,” said Thomas P. Campbell, director and CEO of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, which comprises the de Young and the Legion of Honor.

Women’s fashions by more than 50 designers, spanning from French haute couture and noted American designers to contemporary avant garde creators, will be on display through Aug. 11. Designers and fashion houses include Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, Japanese fashion houseComme des Garçons, 20th century California designer James Galanos,Oscar de la Renta, Christian Lacroix, Alexander McQueen and contemporary California designersKate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte.

“As the city’s museum, we are now thrilled to present stunning selections from our costume collection in an exhibition that examines the city’s evolving style ethos,” Campbell told The Chronicle, noting that the institution’s costume collection “is one of the strongest in the country” thanks to gifts from Bay Area residents.

“Fashioning San Francisco” is the culmination of decades of donations to the costume collection that spans three millennia, 125 countries and includes more than 22,000 textiles and garments, said exhibition curator Laura Camerlengo.

“Since the opening of the new de Young in 2005, we’ve seen many great fashion exhibitions … which created a lot of excitement for gifting high fashion to the museum,” said Camerlengo, referring to exhibitions celebrating designers including Vivienne Westwood, Cristobal Balenciaga and Jean Paul Gaultier, among others.

As for the forthcoming show, she said it “picks up in the wake of the 1906 earthquake and goes to the present and considers the development of Bay Area high style as connected to national and international trade, to retail and consumerism, to cosmopolitanism and civic identity.

“And then there’s also the lenses of multiculturalism and women’s history.”

Members of San Francisco’s early prominent families helped build the collection, with several pieces from the early 1900s and 1910s donated by women in the Crocker family, well-known in the city’s society scene. Patriarch Charles Crocker made his fortune as a founder of the Central Pacific Railroad to become known as one of the Big Four railroad magnates of the era.

Gifts by the estates of Hillsborough socialite Eleanor Christenson de Guigné and Jeanne Magnin, from the I. Magnin and Joseph Magnin department stores family, help fill out the exhibition’s mid-century clothing. Among the most spectacular pieces in the exhibition from that era are Christian Dior’s Venus and Junon gowns, gifts from the I. Magnin department store.

More recent gifts include garments by John Galliano, owned by philanthropist Dodie Rosekrans, one of the earliest supporters of the British designer, and experimental Japanese designers like Junya Watanabe, owned by art collectorNorah Stone.

但财政官叫s the2018 giftof more than 500 ensembles by Christine Suppes, Palo Alto collector andauthorof “California Elegance: Portraits From the Final Frontier,” “one of the most seminal, transformative gifts to the collection.” It features pieces by Alexander McQueen, On Aura Tout Vu, Geoffrey Beene and Rodarte, which are among the works in “Fashioning San Francisco.”

The most recent additions to the show include two ensembles by Christopher John Rogers, lent by Oakland retailerSherri McMullen.

被任命为curator-in-charge财政官costume and textile arts at FAMSF in June, joined the museums as the department’s assistant curator in 2015 and was lead curator on the exhibition “Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love” at the de Young in 2021, a show she originally organized at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

“I’m thrilled to be able to continue to work with our global collections of costume and textiles for our exhibitions and programs,” Camerlengo said. Among her priorities for the collection is furthering the integration of textiles into the permanent collection galleries and presenting them across the museum’s collections “to create dialogues across different kinds of art.”

In addition to “Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style,” the de Young announced additional exhibitions for the second half of the year:

• “Crafting Radicality: Bay Area Artists From the Svane Gift,” featuring 12 artworks by 30 mid-career Bay Area artists gifted to the museum by the Svane Family Foundation, opens Saturday, July 22, and will be on view through Jan. 31.
• The 2023 de Young Open, featuring submitted work by artists from the nine Bay Area counties, opens Sept. 30 and will be on view through Jan. 7.
• “Contemporary Indigenous Voices of California’s South Coast Range” will be the de Young’s final exhibition of the year, opening Oct. 7. It is scheduled to be on display through Jan. 7.

In 2024, the de Young plans to present “Lee Mingwei Rituals of Care,” the first solo American museum exhibition for the Taiwanese artist. It’s scheduled to open in the museum’s free exhibition spaces on Feb. 17 and be on view through July 7.

A retrospective of photographer Irving Penn, organized by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, is also slated to run from March 16 to July 21, 2024, at the de Young, with the addition of a special section devoted to portraits of hippies and Hells Angels as well as local bands the Grateful Dead and Big Brother and the Holding Company, which Penn made in San Francisco during theSummer of Love.

At the Legion of Honor, “Drawing the Line: Michelangelo to Asawa” is scheduled to run Aug. 5 through Feb. 25. It will feature works from FAMSF’s Achenbach Foundation for Graphic Arts, which include drawings by Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol and more. Midway through that run, on Nov. 19, “Botticelli Drawings” will be unveiled, bringing together nearly 60 works on paper by the Italian master.

Correction:The original version of this story misstated information about two of the de Young Museum’s upcoming shows. “Crafting Radicality: Bay Area Artists From the Svane Gift” features 12 artworks and the 2023 de Young Open exhibition debuts on Sept. 30.

Reach Tony Bravo: tbravo@sfchronicle.com